The Best Acrylic Paint Brushes (What You Need—and What You Don’t)
These are my go-to—not to-go—acrylic paint brushes. Skip the bloated kits and grab the exact shapes, sizes, and sets I rely on for loose, expressive work—beginner to pro.
Deciding on the best acrylic pain brushes can be a lot like ordering out. Personally, I don’t like to‑go food. If I’m paying restaurant prices, I want the chef’s best—hot, crisp, plated—not a soggy, lukewarm version I open at home. Same money, worse experience.
Brush shopping can feel like that. You pay “restaurant prices” for a giant to‑go bag of 24 brushes, but once you get them home most are wilted ideas you’ll use twice. If you paint loose and expressive like I do, you just need some go-to reliable brushes and skip the to-go varieties.
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This guide shows exactly what to buy (and what to skip), the sizes that actually matter, and the two lines I trust for beginners and pros—so your brush roll feels plated, not packaged.
Starter Kit
- Flats: #6, #12 (medium‑stiff synthetic)
- Rounds: #4, #8
- Fan: #4 (one is plenty)
- Liner or signature brush (great for liners interest)
- Optional add: Filbert #8 for softer edges
- Duplicates: 3 of each flat/round size so you can park a brush per color/value and keep painting without constant rinsing.
Counts: As listed above, that’s 14 brushes (12 duplicates + 1 fan). Add a filbert (x1 or x2) if you love blending and soft transitions.
Think plated entrée, not takeout combo: below are the exact shapes, sizes, and sets that deliver clean edges, lively marks, and speed at the easel.
My Go‑To Lines & Brands
Princeton Catalyst Polytip
If you’re buying your first “real” acrylic brushes, start here. The synthetic fibers have split tips that mimic flagged natural bristle, so you get great paint pickup, edge control, and snap—without hog‑bristle mush when water enters the chat. Made for medium to heavy‑body acrylics (and they’ll push gels without whining).
- Why I like them: affordable, durable, keep their shape, easy cleanup.
- Best shapes for acrylic: flats/brights, filbert, round, fan.
Silver Brush Ruby Satin
Once you’ve got some mileage and want a little extra crispness, Ruby Satin is a lovely upgrade. They have a lively spring and hold a razor edge when you need it, while still feeling smooth on the surface.
- Why I like them: pro feel and edge quality without boutique pricing.
- Great for: tight edges in a loose painting, clean calligraphic marks.
Personal setup: I reach for Catalyst for ~90% of my marks and sprinkle in Ruby Satin when I want that super‑clean edge or extra snap.
Sets Worth Buying
Catalyst Polytip Sets (Beginner‑Friendly)
Same great fibers, bundled. I recommend two identical sets so you can dedicate brushes to light/mid/dark (or warm/cool) and stay out of the rinse cup. That one habit speeds you up more than any “special effects” brush ever will.
Ruby Satin Sets (Pro Value)
If you’re leveling up, a small Ruby Satin set (a couple of flats + a filbert + a round) is a fantastic complement to your Catalyst army.
Exact Sizes I Recommend
| Shape | Sizes | Qty | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flat | #6, #12 | 3 each | Block‑in, sharp edges, quick coverage |
| Round | #4, #8 | 3 each | Drawing, accents, calligraphic marks |
| Fan | #4 | 1 | Soft textures, feathered transitions |
| Optional Filbert | #8 | 1–2 | Softer edges without losing control |
Start here for control from big shapes to linework with zero fluff. Add larger versions of these same shapes when you move to bigger canvases. I you enjoy linear brushwork add a liner, or signature brush.
What Makes a “Right” Acrylic Brush
- Point/Edge Retention: Holds a tip and a clean edge after abuse.
- Balanced Snap: Enough spring to push viscous paint, but not so stiff it skates.
- Comfortable Handle: Long handles for easel work; short handles for desk work.
- Water Tolerance: Acrylic means water—avoid anything that goes “moppy” when wet.
Brush Shapes, Fast & Practical
- Flat / Bright: Your workhorse. Flats cover, carve edges, and lay in planes; brights are slightly shorter for more control.
- Round: Linework, drawing, accents, “calligraphy” in paint.
- Filbert: The peace treaty between flat and round—soft corners, natural transitions.
- Angle (Angular Shader): Handy for tight corners and angled pulls; not essential, but nice if you love crisp diagonals.
- Fan: Texture and soft blends—use sparingly so it doesn’t look “fanned.”
Natural vs. Synthetic
- Synthetic (recommended): Medium‑stiff synthetics keep their snap in water and stand up to heavy‑body acrylics. Best bang for the buck—great for beginners and pros who like expressive work.
- Natural hog bristle: Great for oils, but in watery acrylic workflows it softens and frays—edges go fuzzy fast.
- Skip: Giant 20‑piece “detail” kits, ultra‑soft watercolor synthetics for heavy body, novelty texture brushes (until you truly need them).
Care & Feeding
- Wipe > Rinse: Wipe on a rag first; then quick rinse. Keep paint out of the ferrule.
- Soap: Mild brush soap; swirl, rinse, repeat until water runs clear.
- Reshape & Dry: Pinch to a tip/edge; dry horizontally or bristles‑down.
- No Soaking: Don’t leave brushes standing in water—handles split, fibers bend.
- Dedicated Workhorse: Keep one cheap flat for gesso/scumbling so your good brushes stay sharp.
Simple Buying Lists
- Flats #6, #12 (x3 each)
- Rounds #4, #8 (x3 each)
- Fan #4 (x1)
- Optional: Liner, or signature brush (x2-3)
- Optional: Filbert #8 (x1–2)
FAQs
Do I need expensive brushes to paint well?
No. A good synthetic line like Catalyst will take you very far. Add a couple of Ruby Satin when you crave a crisper edge.
Long or short handles?
Long for easel painting (better posture & sight‑size). Short for table work or travel.
Do I need liners and specialty shapes?
Not to start. Flats/rounds/one filbert + a fan cover 99% of marks in a loose approach.
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